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The labyrinth doesn't appear on most itineraries—which is exactly why you should find it. Parc del Laberint d'Horta, Barcelona's oldest garden, hides a cypress maze that predates the city's tourism industry by two centuries. This is residential Barcelona, far from the Gothic Quarter's crush, where the views of the city come free and the 113 restaurants serve Catalan grandmothers' recipes at prices that make Eixample look criminal. Hospital de Sant Pau is here too—a UNESCO site most visitors skip because they're too busy at Sagrada Familia ten minutes away. The 12 hotels in Horta-Guinardó Barcelona are few because tourists rarely think to look. Their loss. The 90 local attractions include hiking paths toward Collserola and viewpoints where you'll be alone with the skyline. This is where Barcelona lives when it's not performing.