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If you find yourself in Horta-Guinardó, you’ve already won. You’ve escaped the gravitational pull of the Plaça de Catalunya and the endless, soul-crushing parade of selfie sticks on La Rambla. Up here, the air is a little thinner, the streets are steeper, and the people actually live here. This is where you find Restaurant Smith. Don’t let the name fool you—it’s not some trendy Anglo-import or a craft cocktail lounge. It is a neighborhood institution, a culinary Swiss Army knife that has been feeding the residents of Carrer dels Cortada for years without an ounce of pretension.
Walking into Restaurant Smith is like stepping into the functional heart of the barrio. It’s loud, it’s busy, and it’s unapologetically real. The first thing that hits you isn't a curated scent of essential oils; it’s the honest, glorious smell of a plancha working overtime. This is a place that refuses to be pigeonholed. The menu is a sprawling, chaotic manifesto of everything a hungry person might desire at 9:00 PM on a Tuesday. You want a burger? They’ve got it. Pizza? Sure. Mexican fajitas? Why not. Tapas? Obviously. In the hands of a tourist-trap kitchen, this kind of variety is a warning sign of impending disaster. But here, in the residential quiet of Horta, it’s a service to the community. It’s the kitchen that does everything because the neighborhood needs it to.
But let’s talk about the real reason people pack the terrace: the bocadillos. In Barcelona, the sandwich is a sacred art form, and at Restaurant Smith, they treat it with the respect it deserves. We’re talking about bread with actual structural integrity—crusty on the outside, soft enough to soak up the juices of whatever protein you’ve chosen to entomb within it. Whether it’s the classic lomo with cheese or one of their more elaborate house specials, these are not the dainty, overpriced snacks you find in the city center. These are meals. They are heavy, they are satisfying, and they are priced for people who work for a living.
Then there are the patatas bravas. Every bar in Barcelona claims to have the best, but Smith’s version is a masterclass in neighborhood reliability. The potatoes are fried to a proper golden crunch, and the sauce doesn't pull any punches. It’s the kind of dish that demands a cold beer and a long conversation about nothing in particular. You’ll see families here, groups of students, and old men who look like they’ve occupied the same corner table since the 1980s. Nobody is checking their watch. Nobody is taking photos of their food for the 'gram. They’re too busy eating.
Is it fancy? Absolutely not. The service is efficient and brisk, the kind of professional indifference that comes from knowing the food is good and the prices are fair. If you’re looking for a waiter to explain the 'concept' of the meal or a wine list that requires a second mortgage, you’re in the wrong part of town. But if you want to sit on a terrace under the Mediterranean sky, surrounded by the hum of a real neighborhood, and eat a sandwich that could double as a blunt force weapon, this is your place. It’s an honest, greasy, beautiful slice of the real Barcelona that the tourism boards usually forget to mention. And that’s exactly why you should go.
Cuisine
Spanish restaurant, Bar & grill
Price Range
€10–20
Massive, high-value bocadillos that are famous throughout the Horta district
A sprawling, eclectic menu that successfully balances Spanish tapas, burgers, and pizza
A large, authentic neighborhood terrace away from the tourist crowds
Carrer dels Cortada, 32
Municipality of Horta-Guinardó, Barcelona
A spinning, neon-lit relic of neighborhood childhood, tucked away in the dusty, unvarnished heart of Horta-Guinardó, far from the Gaudi-crazed tourist herds.
Escape the sweltering, tourist-choked streets for the open Mediterranean, where the city skyline bleeds into the dusk and the Cava actually tastes like freedom.

Barcelona’s oldest garden is a neoclassical middle finger to the city’s chaos, featuring a cypress maze where you can actually lose yourself—and the crowds—for a few euros.
Yes, if you want to experience a genuine, non-touristy Barcelona neighborhood. It's a 20-minute metro ride on the L5 line, but the honest prices and massive bocadillos offer a value you won't find near La Rambla.
The bocadillos (sandwiches) are the stars here, particularly the house specials. Don't skip the patatas bravas, which are highly rated by locals for their crunch and sauce.
For lunch or a casual weeknight dinner, you can usually find a spot, but the terrace fills up fast on weekends. It's best to arrive early if you want to sit outside.
It is very affordable, often categorized as 'economy.' You can get a large sandwich, a side of bravas, and a drink for significantly less than you'd pay in the Gothic Quarter.
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