Xup Xup Restaurant

Let’s be honest: eating on the Barceloneta boardwalk is usually a high-stakes gamble where the house almost always wins. It’s a minefield of frozen croquetas, neon-yellow paella that’s never seen a strand of saffron, and sangria that tastes like fermented cough syrup. But then there’s Xup Xup. It sits right there on the sand, feet away from the Mediterranean, defying the gravity of the tourist trap. It shouldn’t be this good, given the location, but it is.

Walking into Xup Xup, you’re hit with the smell of the sea—not just the salt air from the beach, but the actual, honest-to-god scent of shellfish hitting a hot pan. The name itself is an onomatopoeia for the sound of a simmering stew, and that’s the ethos here. It’s about the slow bubble, the patience of a proper sofrito, and the refusal to cut corners just because there’s a line of sun-drenched tourists out the door. The vibe is casual, breezy, and unapologetically Mediterranean, but the kitchen operates with a level of seriousness that commands respect.

You’re here for the rice. If you aren’t, you’ve missed the point. The Arroz de Bogavante—lobster rice—is a decadent, messy, glorious affair. It’s served in the pan, the rice stained deep with the essence of the sea, and the lobster meat tender enough to make you forget the chaos of the beach outside. Then there’s the Fideuà, the Catalan answer to paella made with short, toasted noodles that soak up broth like a sponge. Look for the socarrat—that caramelized, nearly burnt layer of rice at the bottom of the pan. That’s the prize. That’s the soul of the dish. If a place doesn’t give you socarrat, walk out.

But it’s not just about the heavy hitters. The tapas here hold their own. The mussels 'Xup Xup' style are a masterclass in simplicity, and the grilled octopus arrives with the kind of char that only comes from a kitchen that knows how to handle fire. And yes, people talk about Marcelo. In a city where service can sometimes feel like an endurance sport, finding a waiter who actually gives a damn is like finding a cold beer in the Sahara. He’s become a bit of a local legend for a reason: he treats the place like his own dining room.

Is it perfect? No. On a Saturday in July, the noise level can reach a fever pitch, and the terrace is a battlefield for the best views. You will see people in flip-flops and sunburns, and you will hear the thrum of the city’s most crowded beach. But when that plate of rice hits the table and you take a sip of a crisp Penedès white while watching the waves roll in, none of that matters. This is one of the few places in the Ciutat Vella where the view is matched by what’s on the fork.

If you’re looking for a quiet, white-tablecloth sanctuary, go elsewhere. But if you want to eat authentic Mediterranean food with the sand practically between your toes, Xup Xup is a standout for honest rice on the waterfront. It’s honest, it’s loud, and it’s exactly what beachfront dining should be before the PR firms and the luxury developers ruined it for everyone else.