Maris&Co

You’re standing in the shadow of the Sagrada Família, a stone forest of genius and madness that draws every selfie-stick-wielding soul on the planet. Usually, the rule is simple: the closer you are to a world-class landmark, the worse the food gets. The 'tourist menu' is a mercenary's game of frozen croquettes and paella that looks like it was birthed in a microwave. But then there’s Maris&Co. Walk two blocks down Carrer de Sardenya, away from the frantic energy of the basilica, and you find a place that actually gives a damn.

Maris&Co isn't trying to be one of those dusty, wood-paneled taverns where the ghosts of fishermen haunt the rafters. It’s modern, bright, and unapologetically nautical, draped in blues and whites that feel like a clean breath of Mediterranean air. It’s the kind of room that says, 'We’re here to cook, not to sell you a postcard.' It’s a seafood restaurant in Eixample that manages to serve the neighborhood locals while providing a much-needed life raft for the weary traveler who knows better than to eat on the main drag.

Let’s talk about the rice, because in Barcelona, rice is the metric of a kitchen’s soul. The Arroz con Bogavante—lobster rice—is the heavy hitter here. It arrives in the pan, a deep, rich concentrate of the sea, with the lobster split open like a crimson sacrifice on a bed of perfectly cooked grains. You want that socarrat, the caramelized crust at the bottom of the pan where all the flavor hides? They know how to find it. It’s a messy, visceral experience, the kind of meal where you stop talking and start working, cracking shells and scraping the pan until there’s nothing left but the memory of salt and saffron.

If you aren’t ready for the full commitment of a paella, the tapas here are a masterclass in restraint. The Pulpo a la brasa—grilled octopus—is charred just enough to give it that smoky edge, resting on a bed of creamy potatoes that soak up the olive oil and pimentón. The gambas al ajillo arrive sizzling, the garlic hitting your nose before the plate even touches the table. This is the best seafood Barcelona has to offer when you want the ingredients to do the talking without the fine-dining fluff.

The service is refreshingly human. In a neighborhood where waiters often treat tourists like cattle to be processed, the staff at Maris&Co actually seem to enjoy the fact that you’re there. They’ll tell you what’s fresh, they’ll pour the wine with a heavy hand, and they won’t rush you out the door the second you swallow your last bite. It’s a professional operation that hasn't lost its heart.

Is it the cheapest meal in the city? No. But for the quality of the product and the sheer relief of finding a real kitchen in this part of town, it’s a bargain. It’s a place for people who love the ritual of the table—the clatter of plates, the hiss of the plancha, and the slow realization that you’ve found the right spot. If you’re looking for things to do in Barcelona near the Sagrada Família, eating here should be at the top of the list. Just do yourself a favor and book a table. The locals already know the secret, and they don’t like giving up their seats to amateurs.